What We Do
From a single attic top-up or insulating your walls to a full crawl space strip-out, vapor barrier and reinstall — RGS Crawl Space Insulation LLC covers the whole job, including the parts other contractors leave for someone else.
Every service below is available across Skagit, Whatcom, Whidbey Island, Snohomish and King County, and every one of them starts with a free on-site assessment.
The service we are named for. We insulate the floor system above the crawl space so the heat you pay for stays in the rooms you live in, and we fix the conditions underneath that destroyed the last set of insulation.
Every crawl space is different, so we give you a realistic timeline with your estimate. See the crawl space insulation page for the full detail.
The full version of a vapor barrier. A reinforced liner sealed across the floor and up the walls, foundation vents closed off, rim joists air-sealed and humidity held in a safe range — so the space under your floor stops breathing damp outdoor air.
See the crawl space encapsulation page for the full system, the warning signs, and how it compares with a plain vapor barrier.
Heat rises, so the attic is where most homes lose the most. Bringing an under-insulated attic up to modern depth is usually the single best-value insulation upgrade available to a Washington homeowner.
See the attic insulation page for benefits, materials and project photos.
New insulation installed over failed insulation is money thrown away. Anything wet, compressed, mouldy, smoke-damaged or rodent-contaminated has to come out first — and it has to come out cleanly.
This is the least glamorous part of the job and the part that makes the biggest difference to what happens next.
Bare soil in a Northwest Washington crawl space releases moisture into the floor system every single day. Until that stops, no insulation you install underneath is going to last.
Ground cover is cheap compared with replacing insulation twice. We rarely recommend insulating a crawl space without it.
No amount of insulation fixes a crawl space that fills with water every winter. Where groundwater is getting in, it has to be collected at the low point and pumped back outside before anything else down there will last.
See the sump pump and drainage page for how the system works, the warning signs, and the order the work should be done in.
Different assemblies want different materials. We choose based on the cavity, the access and what the building actually needs — not on whatever happens to be on the truck.
We will tell you the R-value you are getting per inch and the total installed R-value, in writing, before we start.
Nothing else matches foam for R-value per inch combined with air sealing, which makes it the right answer for tight spaces, irregular cavities and assemblies where a batt simply cannot be made to fit.
Foam is not always the right call. Where a well-installed batt does the same job for less, we will say so.
Insulation slows heat moving through a surface. It does very little about air moving straight past it. Sealing the leaks first is what makes the insulation perform the way the label says it will.
Air sealing is inexpensive relative to the comfort difference it makes, and it is done before the insulation goes back in.
Ductwork running through an unconditioned crawl space or attic is the last place you want leaks. Air you have already paid to heat escapes before it reaches the room it was intended for.
Homeowners often notice this one faster than the insulation itself: rooms at the end of a long duct run finally get warm.
Rodents in a crawl space or attic ruin insulation quickly. The material becomes contaminated, it loses its loft, and the smell finds its way into the house through the floor.
We will show you where they were getting in. Replacing insulation without closing the entry points only buys you a couple of years.
The same material that slows heat also slows sound. Insulating interior walls and floors is a straightforward way to quieten a busy house.
If you are already opening walls for another reason, this is the cheapest it will ever be.
Yes, we do wall insulation too. Crawl spaces and attics are our speciality, but the same crew insulates exterior walls, basement walls and the other parts of a typical Northwest Washington home that leak heat.
Rooms over garages and bonus rooms are the most common comfort complaint we get called about after crawl spaces.
We work with homeowners, builders and remodelers across the region, and we are used to fitting into a schedule that has a framing inspection at one end and drywall at the other.
Selling a house and need the crawl space signed off? Tell us the date — we schedule around inspection deadlines regularly.
Materials
R-value per inch is only part of the story — how a material behaves in a damp crawl space or a vented attic matters just as much. Here is what we use and where each one earns its place.
R-3.1 to R-3.8 per inch
The workhorse for joist bays and stud cavities. Affordable, non-combustible and effective when it is cut properly and supported so it stays in full contact with the subfloor. Poor installation — gaps, compression, sagging — is what makes batts underperform, not the material.
R-2.2 to R-2.7 per inch
Fiberglass blown to a measured depth over an open attic floor. It flows around wiring, framing and irregular shapes that batts have to be cut around, which is why it usually delivers a better real-world result in an attic.
R-6 to R-7 per inch
The highest R-value per inch of anything we install, and it air-seals as it goes. The right answer for shallow cavities, rim joists and irregular assemblies. More expensive per square foot, so we use it where it earns its cost.
R-4.0 to R-4.3 per inch
Denser than fiberglass, water-repellent, and considerably better at absorbing sound. Our usual choice for interior sound control walls and for locations where fire resistance matters.
R-5 to R-6 per inch
Used at rim joists, foundation walls and thermal bridges where a continuous layer of insulation does more good than filling a cavity.
Vapor control, not R-value
Not insulation, but the component that decides whether your crawl space insulation lasts five years or twenty-five. Heavy-gauge sheeting, lapped, sealed and run up the stem walls.
Washington’s energy code targets roughly R-30 under the floor and R-49 in the attic for our climate zone. We measure what is there before quoting what should be.
Good Questions
Free Estimate
Tell us what you are seeing — cold floors, a musty smell, high bills, rodent noise — and we will work out what is actually causing it before quoting anything.
Call or text(425) 319-2029Same-day replies during business hours.
